Uniform Fabric Sampling Guide

The four samples you will see in a uniform fabric order

Every uniform fabric order moves through a small number of sample types, each answering a different question. Skipping a stage does not save time, it just moves the risk to a later, more expensive point in the order.

For the difference between a swatch and a shade card specifically, and which one to ask for first, see our guide on fabric swatches vs shade cards.

• A small cutting or swatch: a palm-sized piece used to check handle, weight and weave at the start of an enquiry.
• A sample card or header: several shades of the same construction mounted together so you can see the full colour range at once.
• A bulk approval sample: a larger piece cut from the actual lot that will be shipped, used to confirm the order before it is despatched.
• A pre-production sample: a piece cut just before a custom order goes into full production, used as the last check before the mill commits the whole run.

When to ask for each sample

A swatch or sample card is the right thing to request at enquiry stage, before any quantity is fixed. It tells you whether the construction and shade range are worth pursuing at all, and it costs the least to get wrong.

A bulk approval sample belongs right before you place an order from ready stock. From ready stock, orders start at 50 m per shade, so a bulk approval sample lets you confirm the actual lot matches what you expected before that quantity is cut and despatched.

A pre-production sample belongs to custom orders, where a shade or construction is being woven to order from 500 m per shade. Because the whole run is dyed and set up as one batch, a pre-production sample is your last chance to catch a problem before it is locked into 500 m of fabric.

Checking handle and weight by feel

Handle is how a fabric feels and moves, and it does not show up in a spec sheet. Scrunch a corner of the swatch in your fist and let it go: a fabric with good recovery springs back with fewer creases, while a limp one stays crumpled. Rub it between your fingers to feel whether the surface is smooth, dry or slightly waxy, since finish changes this as much as fibre content does.

Weight is easiest to judge by holding two swatches of the same size side by side rather than trying to guess GSM by feel alone. If the number matters for the garment (a lighter cloth for summer shirting, a heavier one for a trouser or blazer), check the GSM figure against what you actually feel in hand rather than relying on the figure alone. Our guide on what GSM means for uniform fabric covers how to read that number correctly.

Matching colour under more than one light source

Two fabrics can match perfectly under one light and look noticeably different under another. This is a real property of dyes and pigments, not a fault in your eyes, and it is the single most common reason a bulk order looks wrong on arrival even though the swatch was approved.

Check the swatch against the shade card or previous batch in at least two different light sources: daylight near a window, and an indoor tube light or the lighting where the garments will actually be worn. If the match holds under both, it is safe to approve. If it shifts between the two, ask for another cutting from the same lot before you sign off.

Running a shrink and wash test on the swatch

Before approving a shade or construction for bulk, wash the swatch the way the finished garment will actually be washed and let it air dry. Mark the swatch's dimensions before washing so you have something to measure against afterward. A small, uneven shrink at swatch stage is a preview of what several hundred metres will do, and it is far cheaper to see on a palm-sized piece than after a custom order has been cut into garments.

This will not tell you an exact shrink percentage the way a proper lab test does, but it is enough to flag a fabric that moves noticeably before you commit to it. Our guide on how fabric shrinkage is measured and controlled goes into the fuller picture, including what testing partners check for on a finished batch.

What to check before you approve full production

The pre-production sample is the last checkpoint before a custom order becomes committed fabric, so treat approving it as a real decision rather than a formality.

• Compare the pre-production sample against the originally approved swatch or bulk sample for shade, not just at a glance but under the two-light check.
• Confirm GSM, width and weave match what was agreed, not just the colour.
• Feel the handle again: finishing can shift slightly between a small sample run and a full batch.
• If garments are being cut for approval, check the cut pieces rather than only the flat fabric.
• Put your approval in writing before the mill releases the full run. A verbal go-ahead is easy to dispute later if something does not match once the full order arrives.

Once you approve the pre-production sample, the mill weaves and processes the balance of the order against that same reference, so this is the point where any correction is still cheap to make.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a pre-production sample for every order?

Mainly for custom shades or constructions woven to order, since those commit a mill to a full batch (500 m per shade minimum) in one run. For a ready-stock order from an existing running shade, a bulk approval sample cut from the actual lot is usually enough.

Why does my swatch look right but the bulk fabric looks different?

The most common cause is checking colour under only one light source. Two shades that match under daylight can look different under indoor lighting, so always compare under at least two light sources before approving a shade.

Can I wash-test a swatch myself before placing an order?

Yes. Wash the swatch the way the finished garment will be washed, and compare its dimensions before and after. It will not replace a proper lab shrink test, but it will flag a fabric that moves noticeably before you commit to bulk quantity.

What is the difference between a bulk approval sample and a pre-production sample?

A bulk approval sample is cut from an existing lot to confirm it before despatch, typically for ready-stock orders. A pre-production sample is cut just before a custom order goes into full production, as the last check before the whole batch is committed.

How do I check a fabric's handle before approving it?

Scrunch a corner of the swatch in your fist and let go. A fabric with good recovery springs back with fewer creases, while a limp one stays crumpled. Rub it between your fingers too, since finish affects the surface feel as much as fibre content does.

What should I check when reviewing a pre-production sample before full production starts?

Compare it against the originally approved swatch for shade under at least two light sources, confirm GSM, width and weave match what was agreed, feel the handle again, and check any cut garment pieces if they're part of the approval. Put your sign-off in writing before the mill releases the full run.