Fabric basics
Sustainability Certifications for Uniform Fabric, Explained
What OEKO-TEX, GRS, ZDHC and similar textile certifications actually certify, the difference between product, facility and chain-of-custody schemes, and how to verify a supplier's claim.

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Quick answer
Textile sustainability schemes certify three different kinds of thing, and conflating them is where most confusion starts. Product schemes test the fabric itself for harmful substances. Facility schemes assess how a production site operates. Chain-of-custody schemes track claimed material, such as recycled content, from input to output. A certification only covers what its scheme actually assesses, and only for the specific product, site or batch it was issued against. Benny Cotts is ISO 9001:2015 certified, a quality-management standard; we do not hold the sustainability certifications described in this guide, and this guide exists so you can evaluate any supplier's claim rather than to imply one on our behalf.
Why buyers are asking
Sustainability requirements have moved into uniform procurement from two directions. Large organisations increasingly report on their supply chains, so a uniform program becomes something they have to describe rather than just buy. And export buyers face requirements in their own markets that get passed back up the chain to the mill.
The result is that fabric enquiries now often arrive with a certification name attached. Knowing what each name covers lets you ask for the one that is actually relevant to your requirement, instead of asking for a list and receiving a list back with no way to judge it.
The schemes you will encounter
These are the names that come up most often in woven uniform fabric sourcing, and what each one assesses.
| Scheme | What it assesses | What it does not tell you |
|---|---|---|
| OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 | The finished product, tested against limits for harmful substances | How the factory operates, or what the fibre is made from |
| OEKO-TEX STeP | The production facility: chemicals, environment, working conditions | Whether a specific product batch was tested |
| Global Recycled Standard (GRS) | Recycled content, tracked through the chain, plus social and environmental criteria at certified sites | That the product is free of harmful substances |
| ZDHC programme | Chemical inputs used in wet processing, against a restricted substances list | The finished fabric's own test results |
| ISO 14001 | An environmental management system at a site | Any outcome for a specific fabric |
Read the middle column carefully when a certification is offered as an answer to a question it does not address. A facility certification is not evidence about a fabric batch, and a product test is not evidence about how a factory operates.
Product, facility and chain of custody
Grouping the schemes by what they attach to makes them much easier to reason about. A product certification attaches to an article: it says this fabric, tested to this standard, met these limits. A facility certification attaches to a site: it says this plant operates to these criteria, assessed on a cycle. A chain-of-custody certification attaches to a flow of material: it says this quantity of claimed input can be traced through these certified steps to this output.
The three answer different questions, and a program usually needs a specific one. If your concern is skin contact and substance limits, that is a product question. If it is working conditions or effluent, that is a facility question. If it is a recycled-content claim you intend to state publicly, that is a chain-of-custody question, and it is the one where an uncertified link anywhere along the chain breaks the claim.
What Benny Cotts holds, and what it does not
We hold ISO 9001:2015, a quality-management standard. It concerns how we manage process consistency and documentation, and it is not a sustainability certification. We do not hold the schemes described in this guide, and we would rather state that plainly than let a general page about certifications imply otherwise.
What we can describe is what we actually do. Weaving runs in-house on our own looms at Village Atoon, Bhilwara, and dyeing, processing and finishing run through partnered processing houses in the Bhilwara cluster, so any question about wet-processing chemistry is a question about those partners and we will route it to them rather than answer for them. Where a program requires a certification we do not hold, the honest answer is that we cannot supply against that requirement today, and we will say so at enquiry stage rather than after an order.
How to verify a certification claim
A certification named in an email is not a certification. Each scheme issues certificates with identifying details, and most operate a public register or verification service where a certificate can be checked directly rather than taken on trust.
- Ask for the certificate itself, not the scheme's name or logo
- Check the certificate holder's legal name against the company you are actually buying from
- Check the validity dates, since certifications expire and are renewed on a cycle
- Check the scope, meaning which products, processes or sites the certificate covers
- Verify the certificate against the scheme's own register where one exists
- Confirm which link in the chain holds it, since a certificate held by a processing partner is not one held by your supplier
That last check is the one most often skipped in a multi-stage supply chain, where weaving, dyeing and finishing may sit with different companies. A logo on a document tells you nothing about which of them it belongs to.
What to ask for in a tender or RFP
If a certification is going into a tender as a requirement, it is worth writing it precisely. A requirement that names a scheme without naming the scope invites bids that each interpret it differently, and then cannot be compared.
- Name the specific scheme and, where relevant, the specific standard within it
- State whether the certification must be held by the fabric supplier or anywhere in the chain
- State whether a valid certificate must be submitted with the bid or after award
- Say what evidence you will accept, and whether you intend to verify against the scheme's register
- Separate certification requirements from test-report requirements, since they are different things
Our guides on vetting a fabric supplier and on how we test our fabric cover the adjacent question of what a mill can evidence about quality and consistency, which is often what a certification requirement is really reaching for.
FAQ
Frequently asked questions
- Does Benny Cotts hold OEKO-TEX or GRS certification?
- No. We hold ISO 9001:2015, which is a quality-management standard rather than a sustainability certification. Where a program requires a scheme we do not hold, we will tell you at enquiry stage rather than after an order has been placed.
- What is the difference between a product and a facility certification?
- A product certification attaches to an article and reports that it was tested against defined limits. A facility certification attaches to a production site and reports that the site operates to defined criteria. Neither is evidence for the other, so ask for the type that matches your actual concern.
- How do I check whether a certificate is genuine and current?
- Ask for the certificate itself, check the holder's legal name against the company you are buying from, check its validity dates and its stated scope, and verify it against the scheme's own register where one exists. A scheme name or logo in correspondence is not verification.
- If a dyeing partner is certified, can the fabric be described as certified?
- Not automatically, and this is where claims most often overreach. A certificate belongs to the entity and scope named on it. Where weaving, dyeing and finishing sit with different companies, establish which link holds the certificate and whether the scheme allows the claim to carry through to the finished fabric.
- What can a supplier without these certifications still tell me?
- What it actually does, and what it can evidence. In our case: where weaving happens and on what machinery, which partners handle dyeing and finishing, what testing is carried out and what it covers. That is a narrower answer than a certificate, and it is a verifiable one.
Updated 28 July 2026 · Benny Cotts, Bhilwara
Fabrics
Fabrics mentioned in this guide
Spec, price and MOQ on every fabric page.
fabricGrado 1st
Poly-Viscose blend · 220-240 GSM
Tailoring-grade fabric built for everyday durability.
fabricBenzer Special
Poly-Viscose blend · 200-220 GSM
Versatile PV blend optimized for uniform programs at scale.
fabricCotton Cool-3200
Poly-Viscose 65/35 · 249 GSM
Breathable poly-viscose with a cool, cotton-like handle for uniforms.
fabricCambery
Poly-cotton blend · 150-180 GSM
Chambray-style fabric with a soft, breathable finish.
fabricSonata
Poly-Viscose blend · 190-210 GSM
Cost-efficient uniform fabric without compromising weave quality.
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