Suiting vs Shirting Fabric: What Is the Difference?

The difference at a glance

GSM is explained in what is GSM; the width choice for shirting in 36 vs 58 inch shirting.

Weight and weave

Suiting needs body. A heavier cloth hangs straight from the waist, holds a pressed crease and stands up to rubbing, so suitings are usually woven heavier and often as a twill, whose diagonal structure packs more yarn into the cloth; see twill vs plain weave.

Shirting needs to be light and breathable, so it is woven from finer yarn in a plain weave or a fine dobby. The challenge is keeping a light cloth opaque, especially in white and pale shades, which is covered in shirting GSM and opacity.

What each one has to survive

• Suiting fails at the points of wear: seat, knees, pocket edges and hems. Pilling and shine on the seat are the usual complaints; see fabric pilling explained.
• Shirting fails in the wash: collars and cuffs fray or pucker, whites yellow or grey and the shirt comes out creased; see white shirting yellowing and greying and easy-care and wrinkle recovery.

Matching shirt and trouser on one programme

Because suiting and shirting are different constructions dyed in different lots, the same colour name will rarely read exactly the same on both. Where a uniform needs shirt and trouser to match, approve both against one standard and hold both lots; see lab dips and shade approval and dye lot consistency.

Quantities differ too: a trouser and a shirt use different lengths of different widths. The fabric consumption by garment guide gives the meterage for each. To compare our suiting and shirting side by side, Request Catalog.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Can suiting fabric be used for shirts?

Not usually. Suiting is too heavy and stiff to sit comfortably next to the skin and does not drape like a shirt. Lightweight suitings are sometimes used for overshirts or jackets worn over a shirt.

Can shirting fabric be used for trousers?

It is not advised. Shirting is too light to hold a crease and wears through quickly at the seat and knees.

Is suiting always heavier than shirting?

In practice yes, though the ranges can meet at the edges: a summer suiting may be lighter than a heavy oxford shirting. Compare GSM on the spec sheet rather than relying on the label.

Are suiting and shirting made from the same fibers?

Often. Poly-viscose and polyester are used for both; the difference lies in yarn count, weave, weight and finish rather than in the fiber alone.