Fabric-Type Glossary: Gabardine, Matty, Twill, Serge

Why these names get confusing

If you have spent any time on the phone with fabric suppliers in Bhilwara or elsewhere, you will have heard gabardine, matty, twill and serge used almost interchangeably. They are not the same thing, but they are related, and understanding how is the fastest way to stop getting quoted the wrong cloth.

Twill is a weave structure. Gabardine and serge are both specific types of twill, defined by how tight the weave is and how steep the diagonal runs. Matty sits outside this family, it is a naming convention built around yarn count rather than the weave's diagonal character. Once you separate the weave structure from the trade name, the rest falls into place.

Twill, the parent weave

Twill is formed by passing the weft yarn over one and under two or more warp yarns, offset by one yarn on each row, which creates the diagonal rib you can see and feel on the cloth surface. That diagonal is what gives twill fabrics their extra body, better crease and crush recovery, and generally higher abrasion resistance compared with a plain weave at the same yarn count.

We cover the practical difference between twill and plain weave, including which one to pick for which uniform application, in a dedicated guide. Gabardine and serge below are both members of the twill family, so read that guide alongside this one if you want the fuller comparison against plain weave options like Sonata or Benzzi.

At Benny Cotts, our own twill constructions are sold under names like Panto and Grado 1st rather than as generic twill. Panto runs 215-235 GSM with a high-durability, abrasion-resistant finish suited to industrial and housekeeping wear, and Grado 1st runs 220-240 GSM in durable, easy-care greys and blues aimed at corporate and education uniforms.

Gabardine

Gabardine is a tightly woven twill with a steep diagonal line and a smooth, almost lustrous surface. The tight weave count is what gives gabardine its reputation for durability and its resistance to wind and light rain, which is why it shows up so often in outerwear as well as suiting.

In uniform suiting, gabardine typically sits in the 200-240 GSM band and is chosen where a crisp, structured look matters, security and law enforcement wear, corporate suiting, and formalwear. If a buyer asks specifically for gabardine, our Officer Choice construction (210-230 GSM, wash-fast and wrinkle-resistant, woven in khaki, navy and olive) is the closest match, and Power Gold (230-250 GSM) covers the request when they want a softer, more lustrous finish for premium corporate or aviation wear.

Matty

Matty is a different animal altogether. It is mostly a plain or lightly textured construction, and in Indian mill trade talk it is usually specified by yarn count rather than by weave name, so you will hear quotes like 2/18 matty or 2/15 matty. The numbers describe the yarn thickness and ply, and a lower first number combined with a specific second number tells an experienced buyer roughly what GSM and hand-feel to expect.

Matty fabrics tend to be simpler and often more economical than twill constructions of a similar weight, because the weave itself is plain rather than diagonal. They suit everyday institutional uniforms where cost per metre matters more than a structured drape, entry-level industrial wear, housekeeping, and basic education uniforms. Our Nano construction (180-200 GSM, plain weave, entry-level pricing) and Sonata (190-210 GSM) both sit in the same practical space as a typical matty quote, even though we sell them under our own names rather than as generic matty.

Serge

Serge is another twill variant, woven with a pronounced, clearly visible diagonal and usually at a slightly heavier weight than gabardine, commonly 220-260 GSM. It has a firmer hand than gabardine and holds a tailored shape well, which is why it turns up so often in schoolwear blazers, formal institutional suiting, and structured corporate jackets.

If a buyer specifically asks for serge, Power Gold or Grado 1st are the two constructions worth quoting depending on budget, Power Gold for a premium formal finish, Grado 1st where durability and easy-care matter more than surface lustre.

Worsted, the word borrowed from wool

Worsted is not a weave. It is a wool spinning system: long fibres combed parallel before spinning, giving a smooth, clear-finished yarn and a crisp cloth, as against the softer, hairier woollen system. Most classic formal suiting is worsted wool, which is why the word attached itself to the look.

In uniform buying it is used loosely for any smooth, clear-finished suiting with a fine diagonal, including poly-viscose ones that contain no wool. When a tender says worsted, ask whether it means the wool fibre or the appearance. If it means the appearance, a poly-viscose gabardine or serge from the constructions above meets it at a fraction of the care burden; if it means wool content, say so plainly and quote a poly-wool blend or decline.

Quick comparison table

These are typical ranges, not fixed rules, always confirm GSM and finish against the sample before placing an order.

How to ask for the right one

• If durability and a crisp structured look matter most, ask for gabardine or specify our Officer Choice or Power Gold by name.
• If you are quoting on cost per metre for everyday institutional wear, ask about matty or point straight to Nano or Sonata.
• If you need shape retention for blazers or structured jackets, ask for serge or specify Power Gold or Grado 1st.
• If you are not sure which twill weight you need, ask us for swatches across Panto, Grado 1st and Power Gold and compare them side by side.
• Always confirm width and minimum order quantity when you place the enquiry. Width varies by quality, most commonly 147 cm with several suitings at 150 cm, and the minimum is 50 m per shade from ready stock or 500 m per shade for custom shades or constructions woven to order.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Is gabardine the same as twill?

Gabardine is a type of twill. It is woven on a steep diagonal angle with a tight, high-count construction and a smooth, hard-wearing finish. Every gabardine is a twill, but not every twill is gabardine, plenty of twills are woven looser or at a shallower angle for a softer hand.

What does matty mean when a supplier quotes it?

Matty usually refers to a plain or lightly textured fabric described by its yarn count, such as 2/18 or 2/15 matty. It is a construction naming convention common in Bhilwara and other Indian mill towns, distinct from the twill family, and it tends to sit at the lower to mid GSM range for everyday uniform use.

Is serge suitable for warm climates?

Serge is a mid to heavy twill, usually woven around 220 to 260 GSM, so it carries more body than a plain weave of the same yarn count. It works well for structured blazers and schoolwear where drape and shape matter, but for hot, humid daily wear a lighter plain weave like Sonata or Benzzi is usually a better fit.

Which Benny Cotts fabric should I ask for if a buyer wants gabardine?

Officer Choice is our closest match to a classic gabardine, 210-230 GSM, wash-fast and wrinkle-resistant, woven in khaki, navy and olive with custom shades available. If the buyer wants a softer, more lustrous finish, Power Gold is the premium alternative.

What do the numbers mean in a matty quote like 2/18 or 2/15?

Those numbers describe the yarn's ply and count, for example 2/18 means two-ply yarn at 18s count. A lower first number combined with a specific second number gives an experienced buyer a rough idea of the fabric's GSM and hand-feel before a sample is even seen.

What GSM range should I expect for a generic twill quote versus gabardine?

A generic twill quote from an Indian mill usually falls in the 210-250 GSM range, matched by our Panto and Grado 1st constructions. Gabardine, being a tighter and steeper twill, typically sits in the 200-240 GSM band, closest to our Officer Choice or Power Gold. The bands overlap, so always confirm the actual GSM and finish against a sample rather than relying on the trade name alone.